How to Buy a Used Enfield

Touring Facts & Tips in India

The plains of India is pretty straightforward with petrol & help widely available; any guide book worth its weight in salt will give you a decent run down. Although the very north of India (Himachal Pradesh, Jammu and Kashmir) is not exactly remote, after all, 1.2 billion people does cover a large area, it is remote in terms of medical facilities, mechanics, spare parts, tyre wallahs, petrol stations and so forth. Hence the following information taken from my 2009 June-September trip should be helpful.

Information in this section is based on traveling alone plus luggage on a 2006 Enfield Machismo 350cc. All km quoted are based on the odometer reading from the Enfield. Please note the following abbreviations-
H.P. - state of Himachal Pradesh,
J&K - state of Jammu & Kashmir


** Before You Go **

Will a 350cc Make It Through the Himalayas?
From my own experience the 350cc Enfield loses heaps of power above 3800m (less oxygen available to the engine at higher altitude). The main problem is when you have to almost stop to avoid rocks, trucks etc on a slope. Because ones momentum is so slow, it takes quite a lot of clutch slipping before the bike can pick up enough speed where the engine is comfortable in supplying enough power. If it is difficult with one person, surely twice as hard for the engine with 2 people.

I have met people 2 up + luggage on an 350cc Enfield touring through the Spiti Valley and the Manali-Leh road. They admit it is a struggle and for sure a huge strain on the bike.

In essence it is possible 2up + luggage on a 350cc if it is in good working order, But I STRONGLY recommend the following-
* lighten your luggage to the bare minimum. Where possible leave the spare luggage in a hotel such as in Manali, Dharamsala etc.
* Highly highly recommend changing the chain drive ratio to a lower one- by either putting a new front sprocket with one less tooth on it or a rear sprocket with 2-3 extra teeth. This last measure for sure would make your journey a happy one.


Tyres and Suspension
Many people advised me to put a rear tyre also onto the front. I rode with the standard MRF "Rib" 3.25.19 front tyre with a MRF "Nylo Grip Plus" 3.50.19 rear tyre. I didnt have any problems in the dirt, mud etc and whilst I have no experience with a different set up my experience is satisfactory with the standard tyre configuration.

As a tip, dont over inflate the front tyre, a softer front tyre helps to absorb the impact on the rocky roads and thus easier to steer the bike. Manual recommends the following tyre pressures

Front Tyre
- 18 Psi single
- 20 Psi with passenger

Rear Tyre
- 28 Psi single
- 30 Psi with passenger

Similar, a softer rear suspension minimizes the bike bouncing around (and more comfortable). Make sure though the suspension is still hard enough to support the load. My Machismo has the modern suspension with the expansion chamber; I ride on the 2nd softest setting.

Expect tyre punctures and thus carry the tools needed to repair one. Loading the motorcycle on the next available truck to the closest town is a right hassle, and the friendly tuck driver will help to substantially lighten the load of paper notes in your wallet. See Recommended Spares & Tools to Carry


Air Filter and Carburetor
As oxygen is hard to get above 3800m it would help if you air filter is very clean or replace it before you start the trip. A clean air filter looks like the colour of cardboard, see pic ->

A simple, quick and easy task to help compensate for the lack of oxygen is to open the air/fuel mixture screw on the carburetor. On the modern carbys, the air/fuel mixture screw is on the lower left hand side of the carby. I turned mine to 3 and half turns out (normally its on 2 turns out) and it did help to compensate for the altitude. <- see pic The older carby models found on Bullet models etc have a separate air screw and a separate petrol screw. You should turn the air screw out..ask someone who knows where it is on this type of carby.  

Speed and Dirt Roads
I was a bit slow to discover this but sometimes riding a little faster (5-15km/hr) on a bad road is smoother than riding slower. Experiment a little with this. Also, 10km/hr faster, say from 25 to 35km/hr, saves heaps of time when the road is 120km long (such as in Zanskar)


Sunscreen, Sun Glasses, Gloves and Medication
Despite the height the region is hot in the day and because its above 3000m the UV radiation is much stronger; thus easy to get sun burnt and cracked lips. Sunglasses are must for this reason and also for the dusty roads.

Over the passes, especially over the 4000m passes warm ski gloves or even better, motorcycle winter gloves are a must. I passed over 5000m at 7am before the sun rose over the peaks; my hands were burning with pain from the cold despite wearing the ski gloves.

No pharmacy in the region except for Recon Peo, Manali and Leh. Stock your medical kit before you come.



** Places **

Kinnaur and Spiti Valley (H.P.) (Recong Peo to Kaza)
Will need a permit to continue past Reckong Peo or Kaza. Permit is 150Rs in Recong Peo and I believe its free if you are in Kaza heading to Recong Peo. Expect to lose a good 3 ours getting a permit in Recong Peo.

The last ATM is in Recong Peo, then its either Manali or Leh.

Between Recong Peo and Kaza there are no petrol stations. My Machismo averaged 38.3km/litre over the 407km I rode (includes side trips).

Recong Peo has a reasonable mechanic and the next one is in Kaza. The mechanic in Kaza carries next to no spares so pray you dont need them by then.


Lahaul Valley (H.P.)
After Kaza the next petrol station is either Manali, or 10km before Keylong in Tandi. My Enfield averaged 37.1km/litre on this leg, from Kaza to Keylong, riding 239km (includes side trip to Chandra Tal, Moon Lake).

From Kaza towards Keylong you go over the Kunzum pass at 4551m. The grade is a bit steep sometimes and I had to seriously slip my clutch to get moving once I had slowed right down for a truck, rocks etc. Once over the pass towards Keylong, you reach Battal. From Battal to Chhataru (35km) its the worst road I have ever ridden on. Streams washing over heavily rocky roads. Actually to call it a road is unfair. More like an outdoor off road adventure park..

Possible to sleep in Dhabas in Battal, Chhataru and hotels in Lossa. An option is to stay overnight in Battal an do a day trip to Chandra Tal (really beautiful lake).


Manali to Leh (H.P. to J&K)
The Rotang Pass (3978m) can be a killer because of the truck convoys, especially army, causing long traffic jams and turning the road into a mud bath. A Manali Enfield mechanic advises people to leave Manali at 4am. I have met riders who didnt leave Manali too early and burnt their clutch out getting stuck behind the trucks in the mud. The Indian Times newspaper have pictures every year of traffic jams on the Rotang Pass that can be over 10km long.(LoL)

I came over the Rotang Pass from Keylong towards Manali around 8:30am. Going in this direction there is far less traffic; so crossing it a little later wasnt a problem.

I would recommend the following route to Leh.
* Day 1 Manali (2060m) to Keylong (3550m). Keylong is quite a nice town to sleep over and some people stay an extra night here to altitude acclimatize.

* Day 2 Keylong to Pang (4625m). Sleep in Dhabas here (see pic), expect some altitude sickness here, especially headaches. 193km distance and it took me 8hours with breaks.

* Day 3 Pang to Leh (3505m) 188km distance and it took me 7hr 45min with breaks.

From Keylong to Leh my Enfield averaged a surprisingly good 39.1km/litre, thus I only used 9.8litres of the 14litre tank, over the total distance of 381km. (thus didnt need to carry extra petrol).

Surprisingly allot of the road to Leh is nicely paved and the gradients are not steep. There were no river crossings just an occasional stream washing over the road on the first day. Every 1-2 hours there are Dhaba tents along the road; food, chai available and always possible to sleep there if necessary.

First petrol station is in Karu, 40km before Leh.

There are 3-4 Enfield mechanics in Leh but most charge Leh tourist prices. I found Mohan Sharma to be fairly priced and a very competent mechanic. He is on the left had side as you leave Leh towards Manali on the Leh-Manali road. Leh has a very good spare parts motorcycle shop, near opposite the hospital on the main road.


Around Leh (J&K)
Permits are needed for certain areas around Leh. Once you get a permit keep one copy in good order. When you want to do another trip, liquid paper the dates, re-write new dates and then photocopy the permit. Presto a new permit! This will save you 150Rs per person... But you didnt hear this from me :-)


Nubra Valley (J&K)
You cross over Indias highest pass, Khardung La, which is not at 5602m as signed posted but around 5379m; thus it is not the worlds highest road. The ride to Panamik is great (150Km from Leh, 7.5hours with breaks) especially after the pass.

Hunder has really touristic prices, for eg- a tent with 3 meals cost upwards of 2000Rs per person.

Permit needed to visit this area. Petrol available in Diskit.


Pangong Lake (J&K)
Leave early as the river crossing is impossible to cross in the afternoon. I left Leh at 4am and crossed the river at 10:30am with out problems. They are starting to build a bridge but it looks like it will take a few years yet.

164km from Leh to the lake, and then another 8km to Spangmik, which is further along the lake with homestays. This trip took me 7hours with breaks.

To Pangong Lake you pass over the Changla pass (5200m +) and there is an army base there that offers free hot chai. Bloody brilliant as it is cold in the morning at this altitude. From Leh to the lake my Machismo averaged 40Km/litre.

Permit needed to visit Pangong Lake and there is no mains electricity there.


Zanskar (J&K)
About 10hours with breaks from Leh to Kargil (246Km). Kargil is a soulless city and a mosque is guaranteed to wake you at some ungodly hour and ironically tell you just how great god is..

From Kargil to Rangdum its possible to do it in 6hours, 130kms. 3 Dhabas in Rangdum serving rice & dhal all day long. Can sleep there in a J&K Tourism guest house (200Rs, maybe hot water), also possible to stay in a homestay, ask a relative at one of the Dhabas. No mains electricity here.

From Rangdum to Padum its 117km and possible in 5 and half hours.

No petrol in Zanskar valley so you will definitely need to take some with you. I needed 2 litres. I did this trip 2 up + some luggage and averaged 36km/litre passing over 4260m at Penze La. This is the highest I have been with my Enfield 2up + some luggage, and at this height it was no problem.

In Kargil, Pashkyum, Rangdum and Padum it is possible to stop for food in these places. Any where in between there is nothing available so I strongly suggest packing a lunch, water and snacks for this trip.

Its a really bad road and I would have to say the most grueling I have ever ridden on, simply because its 500 kms return of crap road to ride on. (To be fair though, there is some compensation as there are some amazing glaciers in this valley. But for sure I will never do this trip again).

Remember to check regularly for loose bolts and nuts etc on this trip.



My Pick of the Worst Roads
1 - Battal to Chhataru (35km), by far #1 (see Lahaul Valley H.P.)
2 - Kargil to Padum 240km of total crap road (Zanskar)
3 - Rotang Pass, allot of 1st gear riding (H.P.)
4 - Jalori Pass 3223m, between Kullu and Recong Peo (H.P.)
5 - Pin Valley, from Sichling to Mud (H.P.) and getting caught behind a 20 army truck convoy on the Leh Kargil road and literally blinded/chocking on the dust they generated.


My Pick of the Best Roads
- Pangong lake, especially after the pass except for the river crossing. Paved roads meandering along the valley (J&K)
- From Recong Peo to Nako (H.P.) Paved road, spectacular views and no no traffic!
- Sections of the Keylong to Leh road (H.P. and J&K)
- To Nubra Valley, Panamik, especially after the pass (J&K) Awesome views.
- Dharamsala to Mandi and Mandi to Manali road (H.P.) Paved road, lots of corners, green valleys cut by rivers flowing in them

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